“The fashion industry remains an emotionally driven field,” says Simone Hartmann, head of the recruitment agency Hartmann Consultants and board member of Fashion Council Germany‘s Board of Directors. In this interview, she explains how companies can channel this emotional aspect and structure their teams in a way that enables them to work as successfully as possible.

Interview by Kelly Niesen

Simone Hartmann, you are the head of the agency Hartmann Consultants and have been working in executive search since 2009. As an expert in this field — how should companies structure their personnel today in order to work successfully?

Simone Hartmann: In today’s tense market and competitive environment, companies must ensure that, in addition to all professional competencies, the productivity and energy levels of their teams are also optimally aligned. Demographic change means above all that companies are dealing with mixed-age teams in which older employees are often in the majority. Companies need to know what strengths and weaknesses they can rely on in their teams in each age group. Relevant skillsets and high motivation and energy levels form the basis for productive, trusting, and meaningful collaboration and enable teams — whether working on-site, remotely, or in hybrid settings — to achieve their goals successfully. With positively energized and motivated teams, companies continue to evolve, unlock their potential, and proactively work on good answers to the challenges of our time.

Is there something that makes the fashion industry particularly distinctive when it comes to personnel issues and structures?

Simone Hartmann: While in the past it was often enough for fashion players to have a strong, prestigious brand in order to attract top talent and top managers, the changing job market now requires a clearly formulated talent strategy. We observe a much more strategic approach to HR management in our industry and both, brands and retailers, have understood that they need well-designed training and development pathways to retain young talent as well as middle and top management within their companies. The fashion industry remains an emotionally driven field, however, the image of the euphoric fashion world is today being questioned more critically, and specialists and executives are demanding entrepreneurial substance and responsibility in order to be attractive as an employer brand that knows how to set a future-oriented course in the age of AI by investing in the right tools and developing the necessary new skills.

What does this mean for HR development work in these companies?Simone Hartmann: That this work is crucial — not just as a fig leaf to improve employer branding, but to identify potential at an early stage, to recognize succession options within the company, and to meet the demand for lifelong learning and personal growth across generations.

So would you say it is especially important to create a balance between creativity and pragmatism within these teams?

Simone Hartmann: Definitely. Teams should always be able to offer creative approaches to meeting customer needs. This holds true for design just as much as for logistics. No one can afford to ignore customer expectations anymore; however, the right balance of creativity is essential to drive innovation, bring new ideas to market, and implement new workflows and productive team dynamics.

Are there nevertheless personnel-related challenges that you consider particularly relevant for fashion companies?

Simone Hartmann: Certainly. One issue is the loss of specialist knowledge — for example, the “fitting competence” in the industry. At the leadership level, we see that the focus of top creatives and top managers is largely on gaining relevance and market share, which dominates their daily work. Top executives now tend to have shorter tenures on average, as the industry is under great pressure and company owners or boards expect quick results. When performance is sluggish or negative, reactions are much faster than they used to be.

Speaking of leadership positions in fashion: they don’t have the best reputation — think of The Devil Wears Prada. Have you found that depiction to be accurate, or has that atmosphere changed in recent years?

Simone Hartmann: There certainly used to be main characters with an attitude of infallibility — but those times are truly over. Since the principle of “data has a better idea” has taken hold, egocentrism has given way to the sobering reality of click algorithms and projected digital sales forecasts. As a result, fashion companies are increasingly evolving into tech companies.

You yourself have extensive experience in fashion companies, having worked for brands such as Ralph Lauren, Triumph, and Rena Lange. What did you learn during that time?

Simone Hartmann: Despite the different brand positions and company sizes, I learned a great deal about consistency in brand management. At that time, Ralph Lauren was reintegrating its licensing business and strengthening its European presence with the construction of its headquarters in Geneva. For us employees and for the retail partners, this was a clear commitment that Ralph Lauren would henceforth build its credibility and brand consistency from within — a goal that, in hindsight, was successfully achieved. Triumph on the other hand was and still is a true product specialist, and it was there that I learned product management from the ground up. Working within the European division meant close collaboration with design, marketing, and sales, and I was involved in launching a new product segment — super sexy and seductive lingerie — which sparked lively discussions among the owning families and subsidiaries.

Why is that?

Simone Hartmann: There were concerns about damaging the brand’s image and its established strengths such as fitting expertise and delivery reliability. Nevertheless, the launch went ahead — and neither an image loss nor compromises in fitting quality followed. On the contrary, Triumph gained an additional brand facet, which positively contributed to its perception. These lessons about the interplay between product management, design, marketing, and sales within a matrix organization, as well as insights into the entire supply chain — from pricing structures and profitability to timing challenges — have shaped me profoundly.

And how was your experience at Rena Lange?

Simone Hartmann: There I deepened my knowledge of the luxury segment and of selling collections that, with their niche positioning between Chanel and Escada and their distinctive brand DNA, had every reason to exist at the time. However, following a change in ownership, the brand was no longer managed consistently and quickly lost relevance due to misguided decisions — a lesson and a warning at the same time. Overall the team leaders who mentored me had a tremendous impact on my personal growth. I was very fortunate to encounter strong, charismatic leaders who shared their knowledge, recognized my potential, and actively fostered it.

Today you run your own agency, Hartmann Consultants, and also volunteer your time to support the Fashion Council Germany. What motivated you to join the Board?

Simone Hartmann: The Council’s mission — to act as a bridge between established brands, emerging designers, and the global fashion world — is something I consider extremely worthy of support. Fashion Council Germany is still young, and in the past ten years it has developed its reach and impact as rapidly as the industry itself has evolved. Not being burdened with a long legacy like other councils is an advantage in these transformation- and innovation-driven times. Our members benefit from this drive and commitment to advancing the profound change underway in the German fashion landscape.

What professional experience do you bring to the Board?

Simone Hartmann: In addition to my understanding of the fashion industry, in my current role as an executive search consultant I support companies in finding leaders and specialists who can tackle today’s challenges and view them as opportunities for meaningful change. I assess the key competencies, motivation, and drive of executives and play an active role in filling key positions in the European fashion industry. This knowledge of what makes top performers successful is something I can contribute in a filtered, applied way — making me, within the Board, the “human resources expert” who supports both our members and the Council itself in navigating HR-related topics and serves as a sounding board for these matters.

This interview is an excerpt from our 10-year Fashion Council Germany booklet, in which we reflect on a decade of shaping and advancing German fashion. Discover the full booklet and explore all the stories and highlights HERE.