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15. Okt. 2024

SeaDyes® is a Scottish marine biotech startup developing a scalable and traceable seaweed-based dye innovation for fashion and textiles. It applies leading marine science, from sustainable aquaculture at the beginning of the supply chain, to blue chemistry for processing and application methods. SeaDyes offers a bio-based solution as an alternative to fossil fuel-based synthetic dyes. SeaDyes has the potential to improve material circularity and provide a pathway for detoxifying the dyeing process. SeaDyes is being built with scalability in mind to become a global leader in providing sustainable colourants to various industries, with an initial focus on fashion and textiles.

Why seaweed? Seaweed is a biodegradable renewable resource, is scalable all over the world, does not require arable land, cleans the water, oxygenates the planet, stores carbon, absorbs Nitrogen and provides habitat.


We spoke to Jessica about her project and how Seaweed is used as an alternative to fossil fuel-based synthetic dyes.


1. How did the idea for SeaDyes come to life? What inspired the project?

After switching careers and earning a Marine Science degree, I was deeply inspired by the ocean's colours and forms and its role in regulating climate and supporting life on our planet. This led me to create Crùbag in 2013, an ocean-focused textile design studio and materials innovation lab that merges art and marine science with textiles.  At Crùbag we collaborate with marine scientists and research institutions to design and produce textile accessories that reveal the unseen beauty and knowledge of the ocean. Over time, we wanted to push sustainability further, leading to our first project in 2021—a project aimed at developing sustainable dyes from seaweed.


Each year, 140,000 tonnes of synthetic dyes leak into the environment, harming health, biodiversity, and the climate. The IPCC’s March 2023 report warns that without action, we risk exceeding the 1.5°C global temperature limit. Textile dyeing processes currently contribute 3% of global CO2 emissions and are projected to reach 10% by 2050. Textile dyeing and finishing are the second-largest source of industrial wastewater pollution, disrupting ecosystems and food chains. Many textile dyes are toxic, mutagenic, carcinogenic agents and persist as pollutants, with 15-20% of Azo-type dyes do not bind to fabric and are released into wastewater, often used for agricultural irrigation.


The urgent need for alternatives and our unique position at the intersection of marine science, sustainable aquaculture, and the fashion industry inspired us to explore sustainable material solutions from the ocean. Nature-based solutions like SeaDyes can support the decarbonisation and detoxification of the fashion and textile industries, and these industries in exchange can drive science-led innovation, blue growth and job creation while promoting regenerative aquaculture and responsible sourcing, ensuring scalability and long-term environmental, economic and social sustainability. This approach positions the fashion and textile sectors as key drivers of the blue economy, particularly in rural coastal areas.


2. Can you explain the production process of SeaDyes?

SeaDyes uses Blue Biotechnology to gently extract pigments and other compounds from seaweed to produce high-performing dyes. The three key areas of innovation are:


  1. Sourcing seaweed responsibly at scale. Our Biomass Sustainability Strategy is based on the three pillars of sustainability: 1) Environmental, 2) Social, and 3) Economic. This is to ensure that the growth of the company is not constrained by the supply of raw materials, building resilience for long-term supply.

  2. Pigment extraction and dye production through novel Green Chemistry processes. We are developing unique, high-performing, beautiful, marine-derived colours using a novel technology.

  3. Fixation and application technologies and protocols to apply the dye on different base materials. We are working with industry partners like RDD Textiles and the Woolmark Company to qualify the dye on cellulosic and wool and establish commercial testing protocols and performance benchmarks. Other base materials like leather and regenerated fibres are also in the pipeline.

 

3. What colours does SeaDyes offer, and what’s planned for the future?

Currently, we are developing shades of purples, magenta, reds, and browns. Starting from 2025, we will further expand the range of colours offered.


4. How has the textile market reacted to SeaDyes, and what’s your strategy for reaching consumers?

It was crucial to develop a market-driven solution and gather early feedback. Consumers demanding higher ethical standards from clothing brand names, and the ‘Natural Dyes’ market is rapidly expanding. Regulatory changes are also driving the market. SeaDyes debuted its prototype dye at the Future Fabrics Expo in London in June 2022, where it received overwhelmingly positive feedback and sparked interest from industry partners and potential customers. This led to our first commercial partnership with RDD Textiles in Portugal, where we are working on qualifying the dye for cellulosics and blends. We then visited the Première Vision trade show in Paris, engaging with the Woolmark Company. We are working with Woolmark to optimise conditions for dyeing wool with SeaDyes, establishing testing protocols for environmental efficiency, durability, and commercial viability. These partnerships offer quality assurance, co-branding opportunities, and strategic support for commercialisation, positioning us for global market entry once the pilot projects are completed.


SeaDyes is working toward market readiness with a focus on generating early consumer excitement and industry awareness to build momentum and establish its position as an innovation leader. Demonstrating the viability and scalability of our applications is key before scaling up. By promoting transparency and engaging with both, consumers and industry, SeaDyes becomes a brand that consumers trust, while adding value for fabric and garment producers and brands throughout the supply chain. We are committed to developing a fully traceable solution with a strong sense of place and provenance.

 

5. Besides textiles, what other markets are interested in SeaDyes?

Demand for sustainable, bio-based dyes is rapidly increasing across industries such as leather tanning, bioengineered materials, beauty, self-care, and packaging. Both consumers and regulators are pushing for a reduction in reliance on petrochemicals and a greater focus on improving environmental impact.


6. What challenges have you faced, and what lessons have you learned?

Life is a journey of trials and errors. I have had several careers and faced life-changing challenges, but they led me to where I am meant to be. We all face obstacles, and these experiences are opportunities for growth. Building SeaDyes was no different—we navigated challenges and emerged stronger. Some of the key lessons I’ve learned include testing ideas with trusted peers and persevering, even when others doubt you. Keep experimenting and refining until you find the right path. Nature reveals its secrets when you take the time to listen. Surround yourself with mentors, ask for help, and take feedback with gratitude.


The biggest lesson is that nothing worth doing is easy. For those leading science-driven ventures or innovating in fashion, don’t hold back—be audacious. Build solutions that solve real problems, gather a skilled, motivated team, and refine your leaderships to connect with others and validate your ideas. Creativity and science are closely linked, and innovation requires seeing things from new angles.


SeaDyes is a woman-founded startup, and I am the CEO and dye inventor, with a background in marine science, I have harnessed blue biotechnology to create our sustainable, high-performing, bio-based dyes. But it takes a village to build a company and am very fortunate to work very closely with David Farquhar, a serial entrepreneur, who has a proven track record of raising funds and scaling companies. SeaDyes is backed by an amazing team, including experts like Adam Hughes (aquaculture), Hua Wang (chemistry), Fiona Fung (branding and sustainable fashion), and Robbie D. (financial direction).


My final advice: bravery, ambition, and a long-term vision are essential for creating impactful, global solutions. Bravery isn’t the absence of fear; it is acting despite it. Our planet needs bold, creative teams and cross-industry collaborations to tackle the world’s biggest challenges.

 

7. What are SeaDyes’ future plans and are you seeking partnerships?

We aim to position SeaDyes as a leader in sustainable dye production, offering bio-based pigments and dyes sourced from renewable marine materials. Our vision includes fostering interdisciplinary collaborations between marine science, aquaculture, and fashion while promoting environmental sustainability. We are actively seeking conversations and partnerships with fashion houses, brands, and textile manufacturers to learn more about the market and its needs, learn more about our future customers and further develop and commercialise SeaDyes on a wider range of materials. We welcome industry feedback and collaboration to help drive impactful change.

 

We thank Jessica for the Interview and are excited to see what comes next!

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AUTOR:IN
Fashion Council Germany
ANSPRECHPARTNER:IN
Fenja Niechoj
INFOS ANFRAGEN
press[at]fashion-council-germany.org
MITGLIEDER
Im Gespräch mit Jessica Giannotti - Founder & CEO von SeaDyes

Interview

Im Gespräch mit Jessica Giannotti - Founder & CEO von SeaDyes

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