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A seasoned veteran of the German fashion scene: Since 2006, Marcel Ostertag has been impressing with his urban-elegant—and, from the very beginning, sustainable—collections for women and men. Initially based in Munich, he moved to Berlin three years ago. Who better to chat with about Germany as a fashion hub and its development? A conversation about the challenges facing young labels, the need to support emerging talent, and, of course, sustainability.

Fashion .

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FCG: Mr. Ostertag, you founded your own fashion label in 2006. At that time, you were fresh out of university. Looking back, would you describe your decision to start your own business as naive?

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Marcel Ostertag: Over the past 26 seasons, we've developed into an established fashion brand. Looking back, it's hard to say whether that would have been easier if I had first gained experience at another company. What I do know for sure is that I've always had a clear vision for my own collection. However, 13 years ago, nobody understood my ideas about fair production and a high-fashion collection "Made in Germany." Thinking green was important to me before it became trendy and the term "sustainable" became so overused.

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FCG: The Fashion Council Germany is also increasingly committed to sustainability

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Marcel Ostertag: Fortunately, sustainability is becoming increasingly important in fashion! I don't want to convert or lecture anyone, but consuming fast fashion is simply pointless and lacks any appreciation for the product, the tailors, the design — and also for oneself.

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FCG: How can you actually build a sustainable fashion brand?

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Marcel Ostertag: To build a sustainable and transparent brand, it was crucial for us to find a producer who shares our high standards. We prioritize the highest quality and origin for our fabrics and materials and avoid using leather and fur. The biggest challenge in this area is always calculating a competitive price for this demanding production chain.

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FCG: What challenges did you encounter when you founded the company, both from a creative and, in particular, from an entrepreneurial perspective?

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Marcel Ostertag: The fashion market is very fast-paced and completely saturated, even more so today than 13 years ago. This naturally means that you have to invest many times more energy and passion. There were many moments when I questioned the "my own brand" project. But on a creative level, I had so many ideas. Implementing them was always more important to me than just considering the effort involved.

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FCG: You won several junior awards at the beginning of your career. How crucial was that for the subsequent success of your career?

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Marcel Ostertag: These awards opened several doors for me, both in terms of media exposure and financially. I also always enjoyed participating in these competitions and can only recommend it to every designer.

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FCG: In your opinion, is enough being done for up-and-coming fashion talent in Germany?

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Marcel Ostertag: Unfortunately not. In Great Britain, for example, the promotion of young talent is much more established. I studied at St. Martins College in London and had completely different opportunities for development and advancement at that time. Germany still has a lot of catching up to do in this area—starting with the self-image and perception of its own fantastic designers. In Germany, there's a tendency to look internationally rather than building and promoting national talent. I would like to see Berlin become a strong fashion hub.

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FCG: You are also a member of the Fashion Council Germany…

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Marcel Ostertag: …Precisely for the reason mentioned above: to strengthen the German fashion industry institutionally and to foster greater dialogue. For me, the FCG's greatest achievement to date is that it has promoted exchange among designers and provides them with representation. It's also beneficial for the industry to have an institution that advocates for fashion to be recognized as a serious economic sector.

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FCG: What else is important for success in the fashion industry?

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Marcel Ostertag: For long-term success, it's crucial to define and continuously develop your brand DNA. Through various projects, I was able to further refine the identity of the Marcel Ostertag brand. These were fantastic experiences for me personally and, for example, fulfilled my dream of presenting at New York Fashion Week.

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FCG: You've been a fixture at Berlin Fashion Week from the very beginning. What's the atmosphere like in New York, by contrast?

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Marcel Ostertag: People in New York celebrate Fashion Week as a major event and express their enthusiasm for fashion in a positive and supportive way, something I find somewhat lacking in Berlin. In New York, my show was also attended by many international press and media representatives and buyers. In Berlin, I increasingly miss the industry professionals, but I remain committed to the local Fashion Week and hope that my continued involvement will contribute to the development of Berlin as a fashion hub.

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FCG: Until 2016, your label was based in Munich. Then you moved your headquarters to Berlin.

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Marcel Ostertag: I love Berlin and, quite simply, most of my work appointments were here. That's why the decision was easy. Our production facilities in Brandenburg and Thuringia are now even quicker to reach, which is ideal. Plus, this city is incredibly inspiring and makes me feel like I've finally arrived.

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FCG: Was it an advantage for Marcel Ostertag to operate from Munich in the last decade and — and not from Berlin?

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Marcel Ostertag: Munich was definitely an interesting location and will always remain a part of home for me. After my studies, Munich provided me with a sense of security and proximity to existing contacts, partners, and my family, who supported me in founding my company. Furthermore, I was able to gain my first long-term customers there, some of whom I've even developed into personal friendships. From Munich, my team and I coordinated many exciting projects over the past few years, which allowed Marcel Ostertag to establish itself as a brand. Thanks to our international presence, however, I can say that my customers are located all over the world. The Berlin store has also brought me incredibly wonderful new customers in Berlin.

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FCG: Before your fashion career, you were a professional ballet dancer. Do you ever miss dancing?

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Marcel Ostertag: I still absolutely love to dance, albeit in a different context. I always enjoy going to the ballet and incorporating its aesthetic into my designs. For my current Fall/Winter 2019/20 collection—"Heroes"—I drew inspiration from the heroes of my youth, such as the ballet dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov. Ballet also taught me something important: discipline. And you can't do without that in fashion either.