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Dawid Tomaszewski: Minimalist cuts, graphic prints, a touch of avant-garde, and a hint of art: Since 2009, Dawid Tomaszewski has been designing fashion for women with a love of the eclectic from his base in Berlin. After ten years with his own label, he is considered a fixture and expert in the Berlin fashion scene, while simultaneously continuing to evolve. We spoke with the designer and FCG member about the current state of Berlin's fashion landscape, his international outlook, and new yet familiar retail concepts.

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FCG: Mr. Tomaszewski, you studied fashion design at the Berlin University of the Arts—under Vivienne Westwood, a designer who is known today more than any other for her commitment to environmentalism. Did that influence you?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: Well, back then, sustainability and green initiatives weren't really present in the fashion industry. Vivienne, like all designers, used fur in her collections and even wore it herself. Only in recent years has sustainability gained enormous importance – and rightly so!

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FCG: Why is sustainability so important in fashion right now?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: The fashion industry is the second most polluting industry in the world. Slowly, efforts are being made to change this. This shift in thinking naturally presents designers with new challenges: Previously, I used materials I liked without considering their origin or the environment. Today, every fashion designer faces the task of creating a product that is sustainable in the long term, while also keeping the entire value chain, from sourcing to the end consumer, in mind.

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FCG: You went freelance in 2009, having previously gained experience in London, Paris, Tokyo, and the USA. Many young designers do things differently today, preferring to start their own label right after graduating. What do you think of that?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: First of all: Everyone follows their own path. You can't usually dictate to young artists; they don't like being told what to do, I notice that with my young interns. However, I can only recommend that everyone gain experience in an international fashion company before starting their own label. And you shouldn't underestimate the economic aspect of starting a business. Creativity isn't everything—creating a business plan and developing an innovative product that stands out from the rest is the key to success. I myself went from being a designer to an entrepreneur.

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FCG: Why did you choose Berlin as your location after experiencing the international fashion scene back then?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: Berlin appealed to me even 20 years ago, as the city possessed a captivating and unique energy that inspired me as a young designer. Those were exciting times! Furthermore, Berlin is a very diverse location and fulfills my personal needs on all levels—Berlin has embraced me just as I am.

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FCG: Back then, the fashion scene and Berlin Fashion Week were still quite young and much was in flux. How do you feel about that today, ten years later?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: A realistic assessment of the market and Berlin as a fashion hub isn't very promising and, unfortunately, isn't internationally competitive. Because the existing Berlin trade fair schedule isn't geared towards the international market, the city can't establish itself. This results in a lack of international customers—and without them, there's no business. I'm currently giving serious thought to whether it's still worthwhile for my brand to invest in Berlin Fashion Week next winter. Or whether it wouldn't be more profitable to focus on international markets.

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FCG: What do you think needs to change?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: The market, and especially the trade fairs, need to align their dates with the international calendar to rebuild competitiveness. German fashion brands also need to engage in collective dialogue to find a solution that will make the Berlin fashion market sustainably attractive to international visitors in the long term. That's why I'm a member of the Fashion Council Germany—to take initiative and exchange ideas with my colleagues.

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FCG: Many designers in this country struggle with monetizing creative ideas.

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Dawid Tomaszewski: Many products are interchangeable and can't compete with the big players. Most buyers build up a product range primarily from internationally known brands. To refresh their stores, they often add brands that fulfill the avant-garde aspect. This is a risky business, which is also reflected in the purchasing volume. Buyers are currently under a lot of pressure and are therefore playing it safe.

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FCG: Why does art from and in Berlin fare better in international competition?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: The art market is a good example, as it is oriented towards international markets and the players coordinate with each other. Gallery owners have established a close-knit, global network that communicates with one another. This is lacking in the fashion industry, and especially in Berlin.

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FCG: Speaking of which: you yourself studied art, apart from fashion design.

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Dawid Tomaszewski: I love photography and art! The impressions I draw from them ultimately come together in my fashion. And then it's about the innovative development of silhouettes. I play with colors or prints, cut up fabrics, and put them back together – it's a process also found in art.

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FCG: Let's talk about another cultural medium — do you actually still have a television at home?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: Yes, I own such a device and I love watching trash TV. I'm particularly fond of the Kardashians!

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FCG: We also see you on television: At the last Berlin Fashion Week, you presented the first DAWID by Dawid Tomaszewski collection for the teleshopping channel QVC. It was launched at the beginning of September. How did that come about?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: Two years ago, I was invited by QVC to VOGUE Fashion's Night Out in Düsseldorf. I got to know the QVC team and could very well imagine a collaboration. But I knew: If I'm going to do this, I have to do it well. And for that, I need sufficient time and energy. That time has now come—and with the opportunity that QVC has given me, I'm fulfilling a dream I had 20 years ago when I lived in the USA.

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FCG: Tele-shopping is not exactly something one has associated with Berlin fashion so far.

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Dawid Tomaszewski: The project with QVC is a collaboration independent of the DAWID TOMASZEWSKI brand, for which a specially developed collection was produced. The DAWID by collection is positioned in the commercial market and therefore appeals to a completely different customer and target group than our high-end label DAWID TOMASZEWSKI. This allows me to inspire every woman with my fashion by expanding my target audience.

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FCG: What can the customer expect from DAWID by Dawid Tomaszewski?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: For my luxury label, I draw strong inspiration from art and architecture, which is why I use graphic, often large-scale prints in my minimalist designs. For QVC, I also incorporate geometric and floral shapes. This gives me many new design possibilities, and I really love these playful forms. We develop all our prints exclusively in our Berlin studio, which I'm very proud of. And I'm sure our customers will love these designs and that they will bring them much joy in their everyday lives.

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FCG: In 2019, you celebrated ten years with Dawid Tomaszewski. What is your summary — and your outlook for the next ten years?

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Dawid Tomaszewski: After ten years of hard work, I haven't reached my goal yet. I want to grow with my employees and the company; I see further growth potential, especially in the international market, for my brand DAWID TOMASZEWSKI.