Markus Lupfer is something of a German icon in the London fashion scene—and extremely successful at it. Raised in the Allgäu region of Germany, the designer initially studied in Trier before moving to the University of Westminster, where he graduated in 1997 with phenomenal honors. His graduation collection was featured in British Vogue and immediately bought by the trendy London boutique Koh Samui, where it sold out within two weeks. Since then, Lupfer has lived and worked in the city on the Thames, building an international reputation. His own label celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2019. For a brand not backed by a major corporation, that's practically an eternity! The designer's success is undoubtedly due to his fashion, which shares many of the same characteristics as the affable, middle-aged man with the British accent: cheerful, casual, creative, and perhaps even playful. For the youthful spirit has remained with both the designer and his collections over the years. And this despite the fact that, in addition to his two main collections, which he always presents at London Fashion Week, he also designs resort and pre-fall collections. Lupfer has built up a real fan base with his poppy and humorous, commercially successful casualwear. His trademark has almost become an icon of contemporary fashion: an open pair of lips, sometimes found on striped sweaters and white T-shirts, or adorned with sparkling rhinestones. For his flirtatious and often surreal fashion, he also relies on colorful patterns and prints, embroidered or embellished fabrics, and graphic flourishes, which has already earned him clients such as Beyoncé and Rihanna, Cara Delevingne and Olivia Palermo. Fashion Council Germany met the designer in his adopted home, during the fashion event at the German Embassy as part of London Fashion Week, and spoke with him about his life in London and the opportunities for German fashion .

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FCG: You just presented your Autumn/Winter 2018/19 collection at London Fashion Week. What is it about?

Markus Lupfer: This season I designed a world full of favorite pieces. It was about fashion treasures that you'd want to keep in your closet forever because they're so special. There's a lot of plaid, a cuddly teddy fabric for jackets and coats, as well as sparkling and embroidered sequin material, and a few floral appliqués. And of course, my signature kiss print is also included.

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The Markus Lupfer label has been around for almost 20 years. You built it up in London from the very beginning. Did you never want to leave?

Initially , I only came to London to study, but I quickly fell in love with the city. The atmosphere, the people—I absolutely loved it. Everyone was so creative. Through my studies, I made many friends, all of whom were involved in fashion, design, music, or architecture. Suddenly, we were even a small creative gang, which I loved. So, I didn't want to leave.

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Do you, living in London, actually keep up with what's happening in German fashion?

Not so much so far. I'm so involved with London Fashion Week and, of course, always working intensively on my own collection, that the German fashion scene often passes me by. That's why I'm so pleased about an event like the designer presentation at the German Embassy in London. The publicity here is especially important for young designers. You have to think internationally in fashion.

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And this is becoming increasingly easier to do from Germany as well.

Times are different now, especially with social media changing so much. When I was starting out 20 years ago, international success from Germany would have been much more difficult. I can imagine that the Fashion Council Germany will have a significant long-term impact. I've always said I don't understand why there isn't something like this in Germany. That's why I'm so pleased that Christiane Arp is currently working on establishing the Council. Because it's an important institution and helps generate international publicity. There hasn't been this level of commitment before.

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Did you watch the group presentation?

I walked through it and I think it's really great. I also like the format, the fact that so many different designers have the opportunity to present their looks. I wasn't even aware that the German fashion scene is so diverse right now.

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You would otherwise not come into contact with the German fashion scene.

Not really , no. I've built my entire personal and professional life here in London. Through my studies, I even picked up a bit of the English mentality. I'm a little bit German and a little bit English at the same time.

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How are you perceived in London?

Am I a German designer in London? I don't even know what I am. Perhaps that's not so important. But the German background is certainly there. And there are German elements in my fashion. I often feel that I'm a bit cleaner than other designers in the wild world of London. My fashion isn't overly symbolic, but it's well-tailored, well-made, and well-crafted.

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Where is your fashion particularly well received?

Germany is unfortunately a difficult market for us; our sales there fluctuate. I can't really explain it. England is important for us, which is certainly due in part to our strong presence there. South Korea and China are also doing quite well, as is the Middle East.

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Is there anything you miss about Germany while living in London?

Definitely the food! Swabian cuisine, of course, like Schäufele (pork shoulder) or Käsespätzle (cheese spaetzle). These dishes are really hard to find in London. My mother gave me a spaetzle maker for home. So I could actually make them myself. But it's just not the same.