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In a sense, Emmanuel de Bayser was one of the first to bring luxury fashion to Berlin. Together with his partner Josef Voelk, the Paris native opened the boutique The Corner Berlin at Gendarmenmarkt in 2006, at the time a rare destination for major international designers and a hotspot for the local fashion scene—even before the capital had its own Fashion Week. De Bayser now operates two more branches in the city, having opened a large store near Kurfürstendamm just last year. The retail expert spoke with the Fashion Council Germany about new demands on the retail sector, the changing fashion landscape in the capital—and why a new airport is truly needed.

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FCG: Mr. de Bayser, while other boutiques and concept stores are closing, you're opening new ones. What's your recipe for success?

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Emmanuel de Bayser (The Corner Berlin): We intuitively do what we think fits the spirit of the times. We're also constantly coming up with new ideas. It's also about feeling and creativity. With The Corner Berlin, we want to inspire our customers.

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FCG: For example?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: In our new branch in West Berlin, we have a shop-in-shop with the French macaron brand Ladurée. Sometimes visitors come in just to buy something sweet—and then perhaps discover a blouse or dress they like. This also generates additional foot traffic. We've had a small branch in the west for years. With the new store and concept, we're more than doubling our sales.

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FCG: They create experiences that go beyond mere shopping.

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Emmanuel de Bayser: Exactly. We regularly run small campaigns to reach our customers, or those who might become customers. For example, during the European elections, we had a special EU sweatshirt in our collection, created in cooperation with Place To B—also to support the idea of a united Europe. We also recently had a pop-up shop with Dior and last year a joint launch with Gucci.

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FCG: Is this your answer to the growing online trade?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: It's not as if customers only shop online now. They like the world of apps, but they still enjoy coming to stores. Online shopping can also be a hassle. When I look at all those people who stand in line at the post office for half an hour to pick up their package—and then the item doesn't fit, and they have to wait in line again for a return? They'd much rather come to us and get a pre-selected range and fabulous service. After half an hour, they're happily back out, having wasted no time.

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FCG: Do you also rely on online marketing?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: We're increasingly using social media; we currently have around 35,000 followers on Instagram. However, we also value personal contact, sending our existing customers pictures of products via WhatsApp that we think might be of interest to them. It's a very personal service. That's one of the reasons we have so many loyal customers.

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FCG: It was recently reported that they now want to expand their stationary operations throughout Germany.

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Emmanuel de Bayser: That's always an option, but of course it depends on whether good opportunities arise. We're always open to it; our model works well in other cities too.

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FCG: What is your concept?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: We've recently focused heavily on the big-selling brands. You know, customers worldwide always want the same products and brands. The fashion industry is quite unique in this respect. If you're operating in a certain price range, it has to be that one label. That's Gucci, Dior, Prada, Balenciaga. We've carried the latter, for example, from the very beginning. Generally speaking, we maintain long-standing partnerships with most of our customers. They value our consistency and see us as a benchmark in Germany.

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FCG: How do you place your orders? Do you attend trade fairs?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: We don't attend trade fairs. I go to the most important fashion shows in Milan and Paris to get a feel for the atmosphere and see which direction fashion is heading. Otherwise, we visit the showrooms. This has certainly intensified in recent years, but I have a good team. When placing orders, I know from the outset what we need, and our clients also tell us what they want. I'm then in direct contact with the brands. Buying the right things is the most important thing. You can have the best brands—but if you buy the wrong things, you'll go bankrupt.

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FCG: International brands, fashion shows in Milan and Paris, expansion: How much of Berlin is actually in The Corner?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: We already carry the city in our name—in red, no less. That's also a signal and has always been important to us. When we opened The Corner Berlin at Gendarmenmarkt in 2006, there wasn't much in our segment. We've always seen Berlin as a city with a future. There aren't many comparable cities in Europe that are so open, young, and vibrant.

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FCG: Back then, a lot was happening in the industry in Berlin. The first Fashion Week took place in the capital in 2007, bringing with it a feeling of a fashion upswing. What's the situation like today?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: In my opinion, the city itself still needs to develop further. The cool image is great, of course—but you can't remain sexy in the long run solely through poverty. I don't see what's wrong with making money. You can see in Munich, for example, that the retail landscape there is more stable, with greater potential in purchasing power.

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FCG: Don't Berliners themselves shop anymore?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: No. Of course, we also depend heavily on tourists and an international audience in general. However, tourism in Berlin was of a higher quality five years ago. The growing trend of cheap mass tourism brings hardly any money into the city because people spend very little. I'm not saying that this way of traveling is inherently bad—but boutiques and restaurants, for example, need a different standard. For that, Berlin needs a minimum level of service, as well as a proper airport that offers direct flights to the capital for a wealthy clientele.

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FCG: Paris is your home and the world capital of fashion. One shouldn't compare apples and oranges—but is there anything Berlin can learn from Paris?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: Berlin has fantastic qualities that Paris simply doesn't. The focus should be on Berlin's strengths. However, the fashion mindset here needs to change. Germany is a rich country, yet people prefer to spend their money on cars, travel, and real estate rather than on food, fashion, and lifestyle. Fashion is also a powerful industry. Unlike in France, it's not part of the culture here. I think this is directly related to the professionalism of the local brands.

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FCG: In what way?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: In Germany, many designers go freelance right after university instead of gaining experience first. But that's incredibly important! It also shows a certain humility towards fashion. We're talking about an extremely professional industry where you have to deliver both quality and identity. There are many great ideas, but a bit more professionalism wouldn't hurt Berlin.

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FCG: Is that why you don't carry any German fashion labels in your product range?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: Yes, we now have Odeeh. We are also in contact with Iris von Arnim and can imagine doing a pop-up store with her knitwear for winter.

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FCG: You are a member of the Fashion Council Germany. Why?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: If we want to advance fashion in Germany, collaboration is crucial. Berlin has all the essential ingredients! Now it's a matter of more clearly defining the direction we want to take. Retailers can't be left out—after all, they're the ones who bring in the money. I'd like to see more collaboration in general, between retailers, the press, and stylists.

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FCG: What do you hope to achieve with this?

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Emmanuel de Bayser: Magazines should, for example, shoot more of what's actually in German stores to reach customers. You know, customers are increasingly empowered and much more informed than before. The most important question should therefore always be: Who is my customer and how can I entice her? Fashion is still about glamour, beauty, and seduction. We should never forget that.